What is a Kinder goat?
A first generation Kinder is a cross between a registered Pygmy and registered American or Purebred Nubian. Each subsequent generation must be bred Kinder to Kinder and all animals must be registered. Kinders are a mid-sized, dual-purpose (meat and milk) breed. Read more on the About page and under the Kinder Breed Standard tab. Kinder is pronounced with a short “i” as in “kindergarten.”
Can Kinders be polled? Horned?
Polled (naturally hornless) Kinders are not allowed at this time. Kinders are genetically horned. Currently, Kinders must be disbudded or dehorned to be shown.
Can Kinders be blue-eyed?
No, it is genetically impossible for Kinders to have blue eyes.
What colors are Kinders?
Kinders can be any color or pattern!
How much milk can I expect from my Kinder?
That depends on many things, including your goats’ lines, her age, the number of times she has freshened, how many times a day you milk, and what you are feeding. Generally speaking, you can expect to get 3-4 pounds (6-8 cups) of milk per day from a first freshener being milked twice daily. Adult does should level off at anywhere from 4-8 pounds per day, or 8-16 cups of milk.
How much meat can I expect from my Kinder?
As with milk production, this will depend on many factors including the age and body condition of the goat, how it is processed, and the goat’s genetics. The best yields will be a dress-out of 60%. These blog posts have some examples of carcass yields.
What kind of fencing or shelter do my Kinders need?
The most basic shelters should be at least 3 sided and block wind and rain or snow. For colder climates, Kinder might require more enclosed shelters. Good fencing is essential and needs to be ready before your Kinders arrive. Many breeders opted for sheep and goat, cattle, or horse panels or some variation of woven wire fencing. Others utilize hot wires or electric netting, especially in rotational settings.
What will my Kinder eat?
While they are adaptable, goats are natural browsers, preferring about 60% browse (shrubs and trees) and then forbs (weeds) and grass. Many types of hay work as long as it is quality hay. Since goats have small, soft tongues, they are not able to utilize mineral blocks well and typically require a loose mineral formulated for the mineral deficiencies in your geographic area. While goats do not have to have grain, it is recommended in many situations – Kinders are usually fast-growing, prolific, and productive so supplemental grain can help them excel!
I want to get Kinder goats – now what?
If you are not an experienced goat keeper, we recommend learning all you can from reputable sources, including experienced breeders, before purchasing animals. There are some great articles on the KGBA blog and in the archived newsletters! Shelters and fencing should be in place before bringing animals home.
There is no one right way to start, but here are a few tips:
- Goats are herd animals. A single goat is not the best option. Bucks need a companion buck or wether and a doe needs another doe or wether buddy.
- Bottle babies are labor-intensive and aren’t recommended for beginners.
- Housing bucks and does together year-round can lead to accidental breeding of does that are too young/small or does that have recently kidded. It can be difficult to discern how far along in gestation (and how she should be taken care of) a doe is if you don’t have an idea of breeding dates.
- If it isn’t feasible to always keep a buck for a small herd, driveway breedings, doe boarding, buck leasing, or AI are options. Reach out to local breeders to see how practical these options are for you.
- Have at least a few herd goals in mind when deciding what animals to purchase. Look for breeders who can provide data or feedback about those Kinder traits you desire.
- Decide what your biosecurity protocols will be. Many breeders choose to test for CAE, CL, and Johnes.
- Goats are long-lived! With proper care, goats can live into their teens.
- Before you bring your goats home, compile contact information for veterinarians or breeders willing to answer questions or assist. Sometimes, it takes some searching to find a vet familiar with goats or a vet that will make farm calls.
Can I show my Kinders?
Yes! Many Kinders are shown at their local county fairs and some have gone on to state fairs, too. Sanctioned shows can be established anywhere there is enough interest to do so. For more information on showing or hosting a local show, please contact our Show Director, Kelsee Gibbs.
I have a purebred Pygmy and Nubian, but one isn’t registered. Can I still use them to make Kinders?
Unfortunately, you cannot – both parents must be registered purebreds in order to register their kids as Kinders. Otherwise, the animals are only “Kinder-type” goats.
My unregistered Kinder goat died. Can I still register it?
Based on a March 2017 KGBA Board of Directors ruling, owners are allowed to register deceased goats if the application is received from the KGBA within twelve (12) months of the date of death.
My registered buck died before his kids were born. Can I still register the kids?
As long as both parents have valid KGBA registration numbers their kids can be registered.
What is the difference between a Certificate of Merit and a Certificate of Registration?
Essentially, nothing! The only difference between these two certificates is the generation of the goat. Both certificates mean that your goat is registered with the KGBA and neither is more valuable than the other.
Are higher generations worth more?
No! The quality of the goat is much more important than the generation, so choose your goats based on quality, not generation.