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We hope you get a chance to show your goat.  There are two types of shows you can try. Open shows and 4H shows.  Open shows are just what their name implies, open to anyone wanting to show a Kinder goat.  4H shows are usually held at your county fair.

Some county fairs have classes for Kinder goats, while others have them show with dairy goats.  Some fairs don’t allow Kinder goats to show since they don’t fall into either dairy or meat classes.  If you are in a county where they don’t allow Kinder goats to show in 4H classes, please contact John James or Sue Beck.  We would gladly speak with your goat committee or extension office about how to establish a class for your favorite Kinder goat.

There are usually two classes you can participate in at shows: Breed class and Showmanship Class.  Breed class consists of the judge comparing your goat with the breed standard and placing the goats in order beginning with the goat most closely matches the standard.  Showmanship classes are where the exhibitor (you) are judged on your knowledge of your goat and your ability to exhibit or show your goat.

There are official rules which have been established by the KGBA Board, which must be followed to have a sanctioned Kinder show.  Once you have read the rules and printed a copy to refer to, you may begin the steps to have a sanctioned Kinder show in your area.        

** Sanction fees are currently waived for all shows

Important Show Documentions

• Show Sanction Application
• Kinder Goat Score Card
• Official Show Rules & Regulations
• Sample Class Schedule

First, you will need a judge. A KGBA approved judge, which is a licensed ADGA judge or a licensed pygmy goat judge (licensed meat goat judges are not acceptable) who has received copies of the Kinder goat score card, breed standard and the KGBA show rules and regulations at least 30 days before the show.  The person organizing the Kinder show is responsible for sending these papers to the judge.  Judges generally charge several hundreds of dollars for a fee plus travel and expenses.  You will also need a location to hold a show with adequate room for animal stalls and parking for exhibitors and visitors.  There is usually a hefty fee for this rental if only to cover liability insurance for the event.  These two items have kept me working with other organizations to add a Kinder show with an existing show rather than trying to create a stand-alone Kinder show.  I have been told the cost of renting a facility for the show and the fee for the judge is normally taken from the cost of entry fee per animal, stall rental for animals, etc. so the more people involved sharing the expense the easier it is to afford.

Another requirement to qualify for sanction (not counting the appropriate paper work which must be completed and submitted to the KGBA Show Director along with a fee) is having enough registered or certificate of merit animals per class.  There is a list of Kinder classes for a show for junior does, senior does, junior bucks, senior bucks, and chevon.  These are listed in the rules and regulations, as is the number required for each show: senior does require a minimum of 9 entries, junior does a minimum of 6 entries, senior bucks a minimum of 6 entries, junior bucks a minimum of 4 entries and chevon a minimum of 3 entries.   Our state fair also has a requirement of a minimum of three breeders from our state to participate for the breed to be included in the show schedule.        

The sanction form must be sent to the KGBA Show Director at least 8 weeks before the date of the show. Please follow up to make certain that everything was received and is in order for the show to be approved providing there are enough animals at the show, then let the director know where the rosette’s for the show need to be sent (to the person organizing the show).  As with any show, notify everyone and invite them to participate in the show, advertise, advertise, advertise.  Send out show registrations to people and as they are returned keep a roster of the classes and who is registered for each class.  You will need to pay the sponsoring group their fee for adding the Kinder show.  At the show you will need a ring steward to help keep the classes running smoothly, make certain all entries are ready to enter the gate when the class is announced.  You will need a secretary to record the placing of each class and make sure the judge signs off on each class.  After the show these papers will need to be mailed to the KGBA show director to complete the sanctioning requirements.  It is also nice if you can find someone to take photographs to send in to the KGBA for the web site, newsletter, etc. 

Finally, have fun!!! Holding a show is a lot of work, but it is also great fun to meet other Kinder owners in your area and to see their wonderful goats. Good luck at the shows!

Now that you’ve decided that Kinders are the right goat for you, you are probably a bit impatient to get started. Below are explanations of how to proceed.

Goals & Expectations

While Kinders are amazing little goats that often thrive on less than their full sized cousins, they still need good shelter, feed and care. Please see our “caring for your Kinder goat” page to prepare for the arrival of your new goats.

In your search for Kinders, set realistic goals: starting with just two or three does and finding a buck nearby for breeding will make the transition to goat owning go more smoothly than tyring to start with a herd of twenty goats. Setting realistic goals for breeding, selling and improving you herd will ensure your success. This is also true when setting your expectations – expecting to get a gallon of milk for each of your does while feeding no grain is not realistic, and will make your search and future breeding results very disappointing. Instead, focus first on the conformation and health of the goats you are buying. If your goats are healthy and conformationally sound, good care and feed will yield excellent results in kid growth and milk production.  

Since the Kinder is a dual purpose goat, emphasis should not be focused too heavily on either the milk or meat aspect, but rather on a goat that encompasses both. Whether you decide to purchase Kinders from an established breeder or start your own lines, be sure that the goats you purchase are healthy and free of disease. Some diseases are not outwardly obvious, but can be detrimental to your herd and remain on your property for decades. Remember – education is the best protection!  

The Association recommends that your very first animals be tested for Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis (CAE). It is also recommended that a regular annual testing program be established to ensure that your herd remains free from CAE. If you wish further information on common goat diseases, please see the Articles section of the KGBA website.

Starting From Scratch

The Kinder breed originated by crossing a Nubian dam with a Pygmy buck. To this day, breeders continue to re-create the cross to bring new genetics to the wider Kinder gene pool, or to start a Kinder herd when established lines are not readily available.

The only criteria in this venture is that the Nubian is registered as purebred or 100% American through American Dairy Goat Association (ADGA), American Goat Society (AGS), or the Canadian Goat Society (CGS), that the Pygmy is registered with the National Pygmy Association (NPGA), American Goat Society (AGS) or the Canadian Goat Society (CGS) and can show proper documentation of ownership, lease, or breeding rights on both parents. The crossing of these two registered breeds result in first generation Kinders. After this initial breeding the Kinder is bred within their own breed. The harder question is, what criteria should be used when selecting the individuals? While the KGBA makes no ruling on the specific type you can use, we do have the following recommendations;

Nubians:

This breed provides the Dairy aspect of the Kinder’s dual purpose nature. They should have the basics of conformation down pat. They should be long bodied, deep and wide. You want a doe who has great capacity for holding multiple kids easily during pregnancy, with lots of room for a full rumen, to fuel high milk production and stay well fleshed. They should have strong, level backs and wide, flat rumps. Rumps should be long and level from hip to pin, and wide and level thurl to thurl. Chests should be wide and deep, with good extension of brisket, and increasing depth of body. Legs should be straight, with tight short pasterns, and tight toes pointing straight forward. Udders should be very high, wide and tightly attached in the rear, with a strong medial, and long smooth foreudder. It should be capacious, and she should produce large amounts of milk with ease. ADGA provides 
performance programs that many breeders partake in. If you can, look for high LA (Linear Appraisal) scores and DHIR milk records.  As far as type goes, you want a heavier, more robust doe that has adequate muscling. Stay away from delicate, refined, or “twig like” does. You want a hardworking girl that can contribute to the dual purpose nature of their Kinder kids, and not give you excessive dairyness you’ll need to breed out later. Stay away 
from selecting an animal based on color.

Pygmies:

These little guys will add the meat qualities and medium size our Kinders should be known for. Look for a buck that is long bodied, and as level as possible. Many Pygmies will have great width and depth, but it’s important to include plenty of length in the equation, for appropriate body capacity. You want as long and level a rump as you can find. Pygmies are often short and steep hip to pin, and sloping thurl to thurl. Be picky, and keep in mind that correct toplines and rump structure are crucial in their Kinder offspring. You want the same straight legs and feet as with the Nubians, with short and strong pasterns that won’t deteriorate with age. Chests should be wide and deep with a brisket that extends well past the point of the shoulder, wide and muscular loins, and wide and arched rear assembly.
Udders are not a focus in the Pygmy breed and should be evaluated carefully. Inspect any buck, and as many relatives as you can access, for teat defects (spurs, double teats, extra orifices, etc) and avoid family lines displaying those faults. Udders on female family members should be held up tightly above their hocks, wide and tight rear attachments, noticeable medial, and smooth foreudder blending into her belly. Additionally, Pygmies often have difficulty kidding, so try to find a line that kid easily without medical intervention.

While there is no perfect animal, these tips should assist in your venture to creating the most conformationally correct Kinder kids, with appropriate breed type. As always, selective breeding and culling practices should be maintained for 1st generation kids, and beyond.

As with any breed, take care to select animals from clean, tested herds, that are in good health and condition. If a seller advertises that they test for diseases, they will never be offended if you ask for copies of their results.

Available Information

The Kinder Goat Breeders Association Breed Standard, Kinder Scorecard, and registration information are all available on this website, and are very useful tools that can be used while choosing new goats and during future breeding and culling decisions.

Harvey Considine’s book “Dairy Goats for Pleasure and Profit” contains a section on Kinders, and it is an excellent reference for all kinds of goat questions. “The Illustrated Standard of the Dairy Goat” by Nancy Lee Owen, and “Dairy Goat Judging Techniques” by Harvey Considine and George W. Trimberger are also excellent resources that will help you learn how to evaluate your goats.

These information sources will give you the essentials to help you make wise breeding decisions as you build your Kinders. Your first Kinders, realistically, will not be perfect. You will find good characteristics in each animal, but not any one of them will have it all. Begin with the very best animals you can afford, and work up from there.

What is a Kinder goat?

A first generation Kinder is a cross between a registered Pygmy and registered American or Purebred Nubian. Each subsequent generation must be bred Kinder to Kinder and all animals must be registered. Kinders are a mid-sized, dual-purpose (meat and milk) breed. Read more on the About page and under the Kinder Breed Standard tab. Kinder is pronounced with a short “i” as in “kindergarten.”

Can Kinders be polled? Horned?

Polled (naturally hornless) Kinders are not allowed at this time. Kinders are genetically horned. Currently, Kinders must be disbudded or dehorned to be shown.

Can Kinders be blue-eyed?

No, it is genetically impossible for Kinders to have blue eyes.

What colors are Kinders?

Kinders can be any color or pattern!

How much milk can I expect from my Kinder?

That depends on many things, including your goats’ lines, her age, the number of times she has freshened, how many times a day you milk, and what you are feeding. Generally speaking, you can expect to get 3-4 pounds (6-8 cups) of milk per day from a first freshener being milked twice daily. Adult does should level off at anywhere from 4-8 pounds per day, or 8-16 cups of milk.

How much meat can I expect from my Kinder?

As with milk production, this will depend on many factors including the age and body condition of the goat, how it is processed, and the goat’s genetics. The best yields will be a dress-out of 60%. These blog posts have some examples of carcass yields.

What kind of fencing or shelter do my Kinders need?

The most basic shelters should be at least 3 sided and block wind and rain or snow. For colder climates, Kinder might require more enclosed shelters. Good fencing is essential and needs to be ready before your Kinders arrive. Many breeders opted for sheep and goat, cattle, or horse panels or some variation of woven wire fencing. Others utilize hot wires or electric netting, especially in rotational settings.

What will my Kinder eat?

While they are adaptable, goats are natural browsers, preferring about 60% browse (shrubs and trees) and then forbs (weeds) and grass. Many types of hay work as long as it is quality hay. Since goats have small, soft tongues, they are not able to utilize mineral blocks well and typically require a loose mineral formulated for the mineral deficiencies in your geographic area. While goats do not have to have grain, it is recommended in many situations – Kinders are usually fast-growing, prolific, and productive so supplemental grain can help them excel!

I want to get Kinder goats – now what?

If you are not an experienced goat keeper, we recommend learning all you can from reputable sources, including experienced breeders, before purchasing animals. There are some great articles on the KGBA blog and in the archived newsletters! Shelters and fencing should be in place before bringing animals home.

There is no one right way to start, but here are a few tips:

• Goats are herd animals. A single goat is not the best option. Bucks need a companion buck or wether and a doe needs another doe or wether buddy.
• Bottle babies are labor-intensive and aren’t recommended for beginners.
• Housing bucks and does together year-round can lead to accidental breeding of does that are too young/small or does that have recently kidded. It can be difficult to discern how far along in gestation (and how she should be taken care of) a doe is if you don’t have an idea of breeding dates.
• If it isn’t feasible to always keep a buck for a small herd, driveway breedings, doe boarding, buck leasing, or AI are options. Reach out to local breeders to see how practical these options are for you.
• Have at least a few herd goals in mind when deciding what animals to purchase. Look for breeders who can provide data or feedback about those Kinder traits you desire.
• Decide what your biosecurity protocols will be. Many breeders choose to test for CAE, CL, and Johnes.
• Goats are long-lived! With proper care, goats can live into their teens.
• Before you bring your goats home, compile contact information for veterinarians or breeders willing to answer questions or assist. Sometimes, it takes some searching to find a vet familiar with goats or a vet that will make farm calls.

Can I show my Kinders?

Yes! Many Kinders are shown at their local county fairs and some have gone on to state fairs, too. Sanctioned shows can be established anywhere there is enough interest to do so. For more information on showing or hosting a local show, please contact our Show Director, Kelsee Gibbs.

I have a purebred Pygmy and Nubian, but one isn’t registered. Can I still use them to make Kinders?

Unfortunately, you cannot – both parents must be registered purebreds in order to register their kids as Kinders. Otherwise, the animals are only “Kinder-type” goats.

My unregistered Kinder goat died. Can I still register it?

Based on a March 2017 KGBA Board of Directors ruling, owners are allowed to register deceased goats if the application is received from the KGBA within twelve (12) months of the date of death.

My registered buck died before his kids were born. Can I still register the kids?

As long as both parents have valid KGBA registration numbers their kids can be registered.

What is the difference between a Certificate of Merit and a Certificate of Registration?

Essentially, nothing! The only difference between these two certificates is the generation of the goat. Both certificates mean that your goat is registered with the KGBA and neither is more valuable than the other.

Are higher generations worth more?

No! The quality of the goat is much more important than the generation, so choose your goats based on quality, not generation.

As the only true dual purpose goat bred to excel in both milk and meat production, the Kinder goat is ideal for the hobbiest, homesteader and goat enthusiast. The Kinder’s mid size makes them easy to handle, and a safe choice for families and lone handlers, and their friendly personalities make them a joy to be around.

Kinders make a large amount of milk for their size, and their milk tends to be sweeter and higher in butter fat than most other breeds. This makes it ideal for cheese-making and soaping as well as drinking. Reaching 70% of their full weight before they reach a year, with a dress out percentage of around 60%, they are also a wonderful option for those interested in raising goats for meat. They are very efficient in their feed conversion rate, and their milk and meat have both been rated as best tasting in competitions. Hardy and thrifty, these goats truly are the perfect breed!

The first three Kinder® does were born in Snohomish, Washington in 1986. After the death of their Nubian buck, Zederkamm Farm bred two Nubian does to the Pygmy buck they had on hand simply to get them back in milk. They were pleasantly surprised by the growth rate, great temperament, and darling appearance of the resulting kids – Briar Rose, Liberty, and Tia. As they matured, the new does continued to impress, boasting high quality milk, ease of kidding, and multiple kids in each freshening.

Liberty was the first Kinder doe entered into official milk test (DHIA). She earned her star by fulfilling the same requirements as those set by ADGA for standard dairy goats. Other local goat enthusiasts soon became involved in the Kinder goat project. In 1988, Teresa Hill, Daralyn Hollenbeck and Kathy Gilmore came together to form the Kinder Goat Breeders Association for the advancement of the breed. The first Kinders were registered in 1989 and a new breed was born!

Kinders were introduced nationally through a front page article in United Caprine News, January 1989. This small nucleus Kinder goats and a handful of breeders in the Snohomish, Washington area was soon followed by the entrance of Bramble Patch Kinders in Miami, Missouri. Sue Huston of Bramble Patch Kinders was inspired by the UCN article to start building their own herd of fine Kinders and in turn encouraged others in Missouri to join in.

The association, run by volunteers, established the standards to which breeders today should strive towards and continues to advance the breed. This could not have been done without the help and encouragement of many individuals, including other goat breeders and judges. Special note should be given to the Considines of Herd Evaluation Service (HES- Portage, WI). The KGBA refined the Kinder Goat Breed Standard with the expert help of Harvey Considine. In addition, HES designed a scorecard specifically for the dual purpose (milk and meat) Kinder. The Association later registered a trademark for the Kinder® name to protect the breed standard, ensure a single breed registry, and pursue the continuous improvement of the Kinder goat.

Kinders are now distributed throughout the United States, with herds spread from one coast to the other. They can even be found in Alaska and Canada! There are now well over 3000 Kinders in the herd book. Not only has the breed become very popular among homesteaders and family farms but these little goats have gone on to become star milkers, grand champions at breed shows and in both meat and milk classes at local shows. Kinders are a unique, versatile breed that has won the hearts of many goat enthusiasts.