Breed Spotlight

A Breeder’s Toolbox: Crossbreeding, Outcrossing, Linebreeding, Inbreeding

December 18, 2020 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

When Kinders are born and bred on our property, we become Kinder breeders. That project is exciting and endlessly interesting! Most of us keep in mind how breeding strategies can help us achieve our goals not only in our own herds but also on behalf of the Kinder breed as a whole. There is a place for different approaches at different times and even on the same farm.

Pygmy breeder Maxine Kinne reminds us of a vital point that holds regardless of the approach we choose, “A cardinal rule of selective breeding is that two goats with the same fault are never mated.” Instead, breed a goat that is weak in one area with another that is correct in that area. For instance, breed a doe with a weak chine to a buck with a level topline. Keep in mind a mental picture of the kind of Kinder you are breeding to achieve, adding animals to your herd that help you to achieve that goal.

As you work toward the herd you want to see, you have several options by way of breeding strategies and may well decide to utilize more than one strategy in your breeding program. What follows is a nontechnical discussion of these. In case you want to take a deeper dive into how genetics work, plunge into the list of helpful resources that follows this article.

Crossbreeding First Gens

Crossbreeding refers to mating goats from two different breeds, with each individual carefully selected with goals for the resulting offspring in mind. The Kinder gene pool is still small, which is why the work that a number of Kinder breeders are doing in breeding first generation kids is so important. Carefully chosen Pygmy bucks and Nubian does can lead to some very promising first generation kids that grow up to produce some very nice second generation kids. Yet there is still likely to be more variability among the kids who are born than there will be among Kinders that have been thoughtfully paired over several generations. Occasional lanky kids may hearken back to their Nubian parent or grandparent, for instance, while others inherit a smaller Pygmy-type udder with less capacity rather than their dam’s or grand dam’s capacious Nubian udder. That said, enlarging the Kinder gene pool is critical work done on behalf of the future success of the breed. Here you can find more information on breeding first generation kids.

Outcrossing

Outcrossing is the term for breeding two animals (of the same breed) that do not share common ancestors for four or more generations back in their pedigrees. Because Kinders are a young breed, when we examine our Kinders’ pedigrees, we often find common ancestors, especially the farther back we look, because the gene pool was smaller. But for each generation we move backward, the amount of genetic material contributed by any one ancestor is halved. You, for example, have half your genetic material from each parent, 1/4 from each grandparent, 1/8 from each great grand parent, 1/16 from each great great grandparent, and so forth.

In an article originally published in Dairy Goat Journal, Alice Hall sums describes the outcomes of outcrossing:

If the breeder is working with heterozygous (relatively genetically diverse) parents, he might end up with any number of combinations in the kid. The results would be very unpredictable. This is what happens with outcrossing or cross-breeding. The kid would be a combination of all kinds of genes, only the dominant of which would show. The breeder would have no idea what recessive genes are masked in the genotype of the kid. A breeder can continue to keep the recessives masked and work with dominants as long as he continues to outcross, but he will continue to have unpredictable results unless he happens to hit on some lucky combinations of homozygous [relatively genetically similar] dominants.

Outcrossing, Maxine Kinne points out, works well when the dominant traits we see expressed in both parents are the desirable ones we are after. Outcrossing introduces more variability and less consistency but can be especially useful when linebreeding uncovers some undesirable recessive trait. For example, two very nice animals with straight hind legs are linebred and produce kids with cow hocks they do not grow out of. That is a breeding not to repeat because cow hocks are lurking in recessive genes of those parents. An outcrossing might mask that undesirable recessive trait. Outcrossing also aids in preventing or correcting inbreeding depression (a loss in vigor, fertility, or survivability) that can happen with linebreeding or inbreeding.

Haphazard outcrossing of a carefully developed line, on the other hand, can undo generations of progress; so it is important, when outcrossing, to ensure that the animals used for the outcrossing also exhibit most of the desirable traits breeders want to see in the offspring.

Linebreeding

Linebreeding is key to bringing out desirable traits that tend to be recessive, like improved toplines and level rumps. The focus of linebreeding is to create a line of goats that has sufficient genetics in common to cement their desirable traits, so that these traits are more consistently reflected in offspring, generation after generation. In lines where this is skillfully done, we may recognize the line when we spot that goat we would love to add to our herd.

When they choose to linebreed, breeders may pair half siblings or cousins, aunt and nephew, uncle and niece, grandfather and granddaughter, or grandmother and grandson, with the clear understanding that promising offspring will be added to the Kinder world, while kids with faults, deformities, or health issues will be culled, as in destined for the freezer. Effective linebreeding depends on culling as a key strategy, with only its successes added to the Kinder gene pool.

Successful linebreeding is always based on an outstanding individual or individuals (not just average descendents of those outstanding individuals). As Maxine Kinne points out, “Linebreeding average animals is counterproductive, as you are certain to fix mediocrity firmly in your herd.”

Inbreeding

Inbreeding is the most radical form of linebreeding. It can bring out recessive genes that are otherwise masked by the dominant ones that determine a goat’s physical appearance. Father/daughter, mother/son, or full siblings may be mated, but this should be done only with the understanding that inbreeding requires rigorous culling (meaning goats in the freezer). Breeder Alice Hall notes that the more successful close linebreedings are often those involving half siblings. The most risky are those involving full siblings.

Inbreeding is a daring experiment of sorts—recessive faults or even serious mutations or deformities may lurk as surely as desirable results do. On the other hand, remarkable individuals can also result, who leave their stamp on the breed. Whatever the results of the experiment, inbreeding reveals very useful information about what a physically outstanding individual really brings, good and/or bad, to the gene pool.

Strategies for Successful Linebreeding

Boar breeder Tom Boyer points out a number of ways that linebreeding efforts can go wrong (see his article referenced below). Here is an inverse of his list, indicating what you need to be willing to do in order to linebreed successfully:

Have a firm grasp of the Kinder Breed Standard and the kind of animal you are aiming to produce (in the case of Kinders, think about both meat traits and good udders, milk production, length of lactations, overall hardiness, parasite resistance, easy of kidding, etc.).
Keep detailed records that can help you make informed breeding decisions.
Obtain superior does and especially outstanding sire(s), even if you have to travel or spend more up front to get them.
Cull undesirable animals by stocking the freezer (and sell that reasonably nice doe you love if her daughter is better and you do not have room for both). (If you are selling animals, please make sure they go to good homes where they will be cared for properly.)
Retain some of the very best kids for your breeding program rather than selling them all, so that you are improving your herd generation by generation.

Which breeding strategy you choose at any given point in your breeding program will depend on your goals in each instance, but Boyer notes that the trouble and expense you undertake to implement a successful linebreeding program can pay off richly in terms of the quality of your herd.

As you make breeding decisions, keep in mind what we know about dominant and recessive traits and those that are otherwise more or less heritable.

Dominant	Recessive
Long ears	Short ears
Wattles	No wattles
Long hair	Short hair
Nervous behavior	Calm behavior
Descended Testicles	Cryptorchidism
Normal reproductive system	Hermaphroditism (does)
Straight hocks	Cow hocks
More Heritable	Less Heritable
Steep rumps	Level rumps
Weak chine	Level topline
Short stature	Tall stature
Posty hind legs	Ideal hind legs

Maxine Kinne has compiled a valuable chart on heritability percentages for a long list of traits at http://kinne.net/heritcht.htm.

For more information, especially on linebreeding and genetics, see resources below. We pair this general overview with two linebreeding Q&As and case studies, one with breeder Sue Huston and one with breeder Ashley Kennedy. We hope to follow up with another case study or two in our summer issue. There’s nothing like learning from the experience of others who are generous enough to share! Most important of all are the insights into how experienced and skillful breeders make breeding decisions.

Resources

Boyer, Tom. “Linebreeding vs. Inbreeding” (http://www.chalkcreekboers.com/Linebreeding.html
Getz, Will. “Genetic Improvement and Crossbreeding in Meat Goats
Lessons in Animal Breeding for Goats Bred and Raised for Meat” (http://www2.luresext.edu/goats/training/appendixI.html).
Hall, Alice. “Linebreeding, Inbreeding… What’s the Difference?” (http://static1.1.sqspcdn.com/static/f/378878/26602312/1444759258933/Alice+Hall+Linebreeding.pdf). Published by Dairy Goat Journal Online; previously published in Dairy Goat Guide, also found in Fundamentals of Improved Dairy Goat Management.
Kinne, Maxine. “Genetics 101: To B or Not to BB” (http://www.kinne.net/2bornotb.htm).
—— “The Heritability Percentage of a Number of Traits” (http://kinne.net/heritcht.htm).
—— “Selective Breeding for Herd Improvement” (http://kinne.net/matesys.htm).
Shoenian, Susan. “Genetics 101” (https://www.slideshare.net/SusanSchoenian/genetics-101-16142943).

By Elizabeth Sweet

Breeding First Generation Kinder Goats

December 4, 2020 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

Growing first generation Kinder goats is an important part of the Kinder breeding program and necessary for the advancement of this lovely breed. First generation Kinders are the result of breeding a 100% Purebred Nubian dairy goat and a registered Pygmy goat. From 1^st generation Kinders, all other generations are achieved. Producing 1^st generation Kinder goats of good quality is ultimately the most important way to ensure a good foundation to build a superb Kinder herd. Thinking about raising 1^st generation Kinders? Awesome idea, the breed needs more diversity. There are some things to think about when considering your breeding stock Nubians and Pygmies for this project.

Nubian dairy goats come in a range of body types. Nubians, who are the descendants of Jumna Pari goats, can be of very dairy character, and on the thinner-boned side. They can also be larger, heavier-boned ‘old-style or Anglo-Nubian. American Nubians are the ancestors of the original Anglo-Nubian goats produced by breeding in Zairaibi goats to add thickness and fleshing to the breed by the British. The first Anglo-Nubian goats arrived in America in 1896 and were officially established as a breed in 1913. Anglo was dropped and they were just called Nubian.

Pygmy goats are a miniature domestic breed from Africa known for their hardiness, friendliness, year-around kidding and adaptability for nearly any climate. Pygmy goats were imported to the US from Brittan in the 1950’s and mainly used for pets and exhibition.

As you can see by the best qualities of both breeds, we get heavy-boned, midsized goats with hardiness, friendly personalities, good milk quality, production, and year around breeding. Their smaller size provides a better milk-to-feed cost ratio than traditional dairy breeds. What a great combination. Picking those breeding animals is important because inferior Nubians and Pygmies will make inferior Kinders. Starting with good quality stock, although not guaranteed, increases the chance of good Kinders.

The common and healthiest option is to breed the Pygmy Buck to a Nubian doe. You can produce Kinders from a Pygmy doe and Nubian buck but the chance of kidding issues is huge due to the problem of birthing kids that are too large for the Pygmy to deliver. Pick a good old-style Nubian of heavy bone, level topline, and excellent udder capacity and construction. Knowing the milk history of the doe’s dam and grand dam is important. Check for kidding problems, disease, and quality of siblings if possible. Inspect the sire if possible and his dam’s milk records. Have any stock tested for CL, CAE, and Johnes. Consider other disease testing if animals come from an area of specific disease such as TB, as many states are TB free.

When picking a Pygmy buck, you want a long bodied, level, heavy boned and muscled animal. A long body allows plenty of room for kids to grow. Heavy bone and muscle helps to ensure Kinders are stocky. Most Pygmy breeders do not milk so it is important to closely inspect if possible the teats and udders of the Pygmy and his Dam/Sire. Rule out any buck with teat deformities, spurs, or extra teats. Pick a buck that is not timid. A timid buck may be too scared to breed a much larger Nubian.

Pick animals that are naturally healthy. Ask about any history of kidding problems, how often the stock has been wormed, needed other medications, or if there have been any illnesses or injuries. Some goats just require less intervention and raising stock genetically healthier can save time, money and heartache. Avoid animals that are routinely wormed or require routine meds to maintain health. When breeding these goats, you may need to provide height to assist. You can assist by providing a step, hay bale or other platform. The doe may have to be positioned against it when in standing heat for breeding to occur. A Pygmy buck would most likely not be able to breed from level ground.

The Kinder breed needs additional genetics and growing great 1^st generation Kinders is a wonderful way to improve the breed. New quality lines make the breed stronger. Having Nubians, Pygmy goats, and Kinders can open up a dialog with visitors about the breed and the benefit of the combination of these breeds. What a great way to promote these amazing animals.

By Lisa LaRose

One Day Milk Testing

November 13, 2020 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

During the Kinder Goat Show at the Missouri State Fair in 2019, the KGBA held an official One Day Milk Test. What is a One Day Milk Test? Let me explain! A One Day Milk Test is a snapshot of your doe’s production and milk components. The test weighs the milk and measures the percentage of protein and butterfat.

How does it work?

First, there is an official milk out, done at a designated time and verified by the milk tester. This “sets the clock,” so to speak, to make sure all participating does are milked out completely at the same time; the initial milk out sets the start time for the first udder fill period. This milk out is not weighed or sampled for testing. During this milk out, tattoos and registrations are verified.

Twelve hours after the initial milk out, the does are milked out again, under the milk tester’s supervision. The milk is weighed with a certified scale and a sample is taken for testing. The sample goes into a container with a preservative to protect its integrity.

The final milk out occurs twelve hours after the second milk out. This milk is also sampled and weighed. Sampling both milkings in the 24 hour period gives a total composite sample, since butterfat content can change throughout the day.

The total weights are available immediately after milk outs. Samples are sent to the lab for butterfat and protein analysis; results are usually available the day after the lab receives the samples. Results are calculated and sent to individual recipients.

Why participate in a One Day Milk Test?

A One Day Milk Test is an opportunity to view a snapshot of your doe’s production, including protein and butterfat content. This information can be helpful determining breeding and management decisions. It is also very helpful for those who do not have easy access to a lab or for those who do not wish to participate in a continuous milk test. Your doe can earn her milk stars in a One Day Milk Test. Participating in a One Day Milk Test is fun and easy!

What do I need to do to participate?

Milk your goat as you normally would, and come to the location where the One Day Milk Test is being held. Make sure your goats are registered and tattooed. Currently, if One Day Milk Tests have enough interest at a show, the KGBA is sponsoring the tests at no cost to members. Shows offering One Day Milk Testing are announced on the KGBA website and the Kinder Goat Folks and Kinder Goat Shows Facebook pages.

If you have any questions about milk testing, please visit the milk testing page or feel free to contact Ashley Kennedy at kindergoatbreeders@gmail.com. Stay tuned for part two, “What Do My Milk Test Results Mean?” in a future article! Until then, happy milking!

By Stefanie Idzikowski

Current Milk Star List

October 13, 2020 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

Here is a list of all the current Kinder does that have earned their milk star!

Age at freshening is read as “year-months old”. Any blank spaces is where old data was lost/not documented. DIM = Days in Milk. A Kinder Star recording is read as “Generational Star earned, qualified on M(ilk), F(at), P(rotein) or a combination of all 3.”

Doe Name	Age at Freshening	Freshening	DIM	Milk #	Fat #	Fat %	Protein #	Protein %	Year Earned
Zederkamm Floribunda 11*M (FP)	5-10	5	305	2480	138	5.6	88	3.5	2000
Zederkamm Daffodil 1*M (MFP)	2-11	3	296	2290	125	5.5	94	4.1	1992
Still Meadow Echo 1*M (MFP)	05-11	5	305	1990	130	6.5	84	4.2	2018
Zederkamm Jasmine 1*M (MFP)	01-11	2	305	1960	109	5.6	88	4.5	1991
Zederkamm Poppy 11*M (F)	3-00	3	294	1940	105	5.4	78	4	1993
Zederkamm Vinca’s Vanilla 4*M (MFP)	03-01	3	305	1920	108	5.6	84	4.4	2000
Still Meadow Autumn 1*M (MFP)	04-07	4	290	1879	109	5.8	83	4.4	2017
7 Arrows (Dusty) Fawn 3*M (FP)	03-06	3	282	1870	117	6.3	83	4.4	2005
Zederkamm Liberty 1*M (MFP)	04-07	5	295	1850	122	6.6	90	4.9	1991
Zederkamm Penny’s Lily of the Valley 1*M (MFP)	3-00	2	305	1840	121	6.6	80	4.3	1999
Little Treasures Kinders Vailinteena 5*M (MFP)	03-09	3	317	1780	82	4.61	66	3.71	2018
Zederkamm Mignon 1*M (FP)	3-10	2	295	1760	109	6.2	75	4.3	1992
My Three Kids Trinity 2*M (MFP)	2-09	1	305	1720	99	5.8	75	4.4	2003
Zederkamm Columbine 11*M (F)	2-00	2	297	1680	87	5.2	69	4.1	1993
Homestead Kinder Jewel Flower 1*M (MFP)	3-10	4	305	1651	98	5.9	73	4.4
Just One More Rosebud 1*M (FP)	03-01	2	305	1650	116	7	75	4.5	2002
Rustic Jumpers Phili 1*M FP)	3-11		297	1630	84	5.2	63	4.4
Zederkamm Mignonette 2*M (MFP)	2-11	2	285	1600	91	5.7	73	4.6	1993
Just One More Lucy I’m Home 1*M (MFP)	3-00	2	305	1590	114	7.2	67	4.2	2001
Zederkamm Buttercup 1*M (MFP)	1-10	2	305	1590	109	6.9	74	4.7	1994
River Birch Farms Cinder 1*M (FP)	03-06	3	316	1516	81	5.34	58	3.83	2018
My Three Kids Anouk 1*M (MFP)	01-07	1	305	1510	83	5.5	64	4.2	2005
Zederkamm Jazz’s Fleur 12*M (FP)	1-10	1	305	1470	92	6.3	55	3.7	1999
Zederkamm P&T’s Trillium 3*M (F)	2-00	1	264	1450	91	6.3	70	4.8	2005
Zederkamm Balsam’s Begonia 3*M (FP)	2-00	2	305	1440	99	6.9	71	4.9	1998
Little Treasures Kinders Isis 5*M (FP)	04-09	4	318	1412	74	5.24	60	4.25	2018
Zederkamm K.C.’s Myrtle 3*M (FP)	2-00	2	305	1410	97	6.9	68	4.8	1996
Pricker Patch Farm Salt & Pepper 1*M (FP)	02-10	2	227	1398	75	5.4	59	4.2	2018
My Three Kids Lil’s Tory 1*M (FP)	2-11	2	305	1380	97	7	67	4.9	2001
Bramble Patch Kinder Mi Destiny 1*M (FP)	2-00	2	250	1360	80	5.9	52	3.8	2003
Zederkamm N&T’s Chai Tea 4*M (FP)	08-08	7	311	1325	74	5.58	58	4.38	2018
Bramble Patch Kinder Spirit 1*M (FP)	02-00	2	305	1290	71	5.5	54	4.2	2005
Rustic Jumpers Heidi 1*M (FP)	4-00		260	1270	84	6.6	56	4.4
Zederkamm Veronica 2*M (FP)	01-02	1	232	1270	63	5	48	3.8	1992
Barne’s Zederkamm Vinca 3*M (FP)	01-07	1	305	1250	80	6.4	54	4.3	1996
Rustic Jumpers Honey 1*M (FP)	3-11		268	1240	79	6.4	55	4.4	1994
Zederkamm M&L’s Lantana 2*M (FP)	01-02	1	262	1240	86	6.9	54	4.4	2000
Zederkamm Balsam 2*M (FP)	01-08	2	263	1220	76	6.2	58	4.8	1995
Zederkamm N&B’s Belladonna 4*M (FP)	01-08	1	305	1190	74	6.2	54	4.5	2004
Zederkamm Silver Birch 1*M (FP)	02-01	2	226	1180	87	7.4	55	4.7	1999
Zederkamm L&F Flax 13*M (F)	01-01	1	265	1140	74	6.5	44	3.9	2002
Zederkamm Delphinium 2*M (FP)	01-04	1	208	1130	67	5.9	47	4.2	1994
Zederkamm Twyddle DD of Beauty Mountain 2*M (FP)	01-01	1	305	1127	76	6.7	52	4.6
Just One More Oprah 2*M (FP)	2-00	1	305	1110	82	7.4	53	4.8	2002
Zederkamm P&O’s Orchid 3*M (F)	02-01	1	280	1050	71	6.8	44	4.3	2004
Still Meadow Cicada 1*M (F)	02-01	1	226	1000	55	5.5	44	4.4	2018
Beauty Mountain Night Ffeather 1*M (F)	1-00	1	305	991	53	5.3			1998
Zederkamm Sweet Alyssum 3*M (FP)	01-08	1	295	990	73	7.4	48	4.8	1996
Zederkamm Mimosa 3*M (F)	1-10	2	250	980	54	5.5	42	4.3
Zederkamm Tansy 1*M (FP)	01-07	2	243	980	61	6.2	46	4.7	1995
Zederkamm Jessamine 1*M (F)	01-06	1	244	970	57	5.9	41	4.2
Zederkamm M&B’s Sweet Blackberry 2*M (F)	01-01	1	237	910	60	6.6	44	4.8	1999
Dairy-Ayers Sunny 1*M (F)	03-09	3	262	880	67	7.6	42	4.8	1998
Beauty Mountain Maanaco #1 Ttahanee 2*M (F)	0-11	1	256	857	57	6.7	41	4.8	1997
Just One More Shamrock 1*M (F)	01-01	1	272	830	56	6.7	38	4.6	2004
Zederkamm Juniper 1*M (F)	01-09	1	292	830	66	7.6	41	4.9	1998
Zederkamm Cinnamon 12*M (F)	01-03	1	220	810	55	6.8	35	4.3	1995

Click the link below to download a PDF copy.

Current Milk Star List – Updated October 2020

Kinder Goats in a Commercial Dairy?

April 27, 2014 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

– By Henry Nordloh

For several years, we ran the largest commercial goat dairy in the state of Colorado. We started small, but grew very quickly. In the late ‘90’s we were milking a few cows and started looking at adding goats. We found a goat dairy in Niwot that was interested in buying our milk, so we began buying some goats. We remodeled our barn so that we could milk 12 goats and three cows at a time, into different tanks of course. I believe we started shipping goat milk in early 2002. By 2003, we sold the cows and remodeled the barn again, putting in a double 20 goat parlor. By 2005, we had well over 450 goats, with 280 in the milking string.

From the beginning, the cheese plant kept asking if we could increase our winter milk production to even out the supply. They offered price incentives in the form of higher pricing for milk produced October through March. We had only moderate success. We tried breeding earlier, we tried breeding later, we tried milking some for extended lactations, we tried everything we could think of, but nothing was highly successful. The major dairy goat breeds are very photoperiod sensitive. Shorter days bring on estrus, triggering the breeding response. Therefore most goats will breed between the summer solstice and the winter solstice. Hot summer days are not conducive to good pregnancy rates, so the breeding season is further shortened. Some have had some success with manipulation of lighting, but I was not set up well enough to bet my income on that. However, there is another way.

Goats developed in Equatorial Africa are not photoperiod sensitive. They will breed any month of the year. When crossed with other goats, they seem to pass on that trait. African Pygmy and Nigerian Dwarf are the Equatorial African goats readily available in the U.S. The Kinder breed was developed in America by crossing registered Anglo-Nubian does with registered African Pygmy bucks. The offspring were then bred to each other, maintaining the 50% Nubian, 50% Pygmy parentage. Strict culling and no outcrossing “fixes” the desired traits. The result is a dairy goat that is approximately ¾ the size of the average dairy goat, but retains a lot of the “meat” characteristics of the Pygmy side of the equation. At first glance, it would seem to be a huge disadvantage to have ¾ size goats in a commercial dairy. I like to experiment as much as the next guy, but who wants to milk 25% more goats to get the same amount of milk? How can it be cost effective to add 25% to your milking time every day? The bonus for winter milk was only about7%. That alone would not make up the shortfall.

Conventional wisdom told me that it was a bad idea to put ¾ size goats into a commercial goat dairy. However, the masses are usually wrong. If all the dairymen do things the same way, it’s probably wrong. If you copy what everyone else is doing, you will get the same results they get. All of the dairies I knew were sold on Saanens and Alpines with a few Nubians thrown in for butterfat. We had goats of every dairy breed and every cross thereof.

We bought our first Kinders in 2003, just after we remodeled the dairy barn the second time. We were probably milking between 150 and 180 at the time. There were not a lot of Kinders available then, so I bought a few from Pat Showalter and a few from Sue Huston. I could see that it was going to take me a while to get where I needed to be, so I decided to add some “Minis” to the mix. “Minis” are any breed of dairy goat crossed with Nigerian Dwarf. I bought a couple of Nigerian Dwarf bucks and used them on some of my Saanen and Toggenburg doelings, to produce Mini-Saanens and Mini-Toggs. Minis perform very similarly to Kinders, at least they did for us. They, too, will kid out of season.

In the fall of 2004, I was able to freshen 8 or 9 Kinders and approximately 16 Mini-Saanens and Mini-Toggs. By March of 2005, we were milking 280 goats, about 10% of which were Kinders and Minis.

Never one to maintain the status quo, we changed something pretty major every year. During the same time frame that we were adding Kinders and Minis to the herd, we started experimenting with ways to cut our feed costs. I started by buying a bunch of whole corn from the man that produced our hay. We were feeding 300 tons of hay a year at that point, mostly third and fourth cutting alfalfa. We were feeding a dairy grain mix in the barn. I thought I could cheapen that up by adding some whole corn to it. I didn’t see many results. But then, I got a tape by Jerry Brunetti from Acres USA about the benefits of adding sprouted grains to the ration. Whole corn was what we had, so whole corn is what we used. We would fill 5 gallon buckets about 2/3 full of whole corn, rinse as much of the dirt out as we could, then fill the bucket on up with water and let soak overnight. We were using 3 buckets per day, but we were feeding 280 goats. We would dump those 3 buckets into a 30 gallon trash can with holes drilled in the bottom to let the water out. We would rinse the sprouts twice a day at milking time. We would feed them on the third day, half at the morning milking, half at the evening milking. We would pour them on top of the other grain. You can sprout longer, but three days seemed to work the best for us. The corn would tend to go sour if we tried to go longer than three days. That can be alleviated by rinsing more often, but we were all working other jobs so were only able to rinse at milking time.

All dry seeds contain enzyme inhibitors. If you feed dry grains, the animal has to make enzymes to digest the grain before digestion actually begins. That uses energy. When you feed sprouts, the enzymes for digestion are already there. If I had to pick the one thing that changed my dairy operation the most, this was it. The results we saw from feeding sprouts were nothing short of incredible. Goats can be very picky eaters, sorting through the grain ration to eat what they like. We put the grain mix in the trough first, putting the sprouted corn on top. At first, they would push the sprouted corn aside and eat only the grain, but as they got used to it, they ate it with relish.

The transformation in the goats was something to see. I thought we had happy contented goats before, but it was like the whole farm just relaxed once we started feeding sprouts. All of us noticed it. You could literally feel it when you walked onto the property. We had been giving sodium bicarbonate and kelp free choice in the holding pen. Once they started eating the sprouts, they quit eating the sodium bicarbonate altogether, and cut their kelp intake by about half. We were able to cut our purchased grain usage by 50% with no loss in milk production. Our forage usage dropped by 20%. All of this because the sprouts were providing the enzymes they needed.

The transformation in the goats alone would have been enough for me to continue growing sprouts. The savings in feed costs, by itself, would have been enough reason to sprout. But the good news even gets better. The change in the milk was as dramatic as the change in the goats. I don’t know how to adequately describe it. It looked better, it smelled better, and it tasted better, not that it was bad before. If you’ve never lifted the lid on a tank of milk that has several hundred gallons of milk in it, you probably won’t know what I’m talking about. It is like trying to describe the difference between a Hershey bar and Dove chocolate. Some won’t know the difference, but one is less harsh. The milk looked creamier and smelled sweeter. Part of the difference in the milk was due to the growing influence of the Kinders and Minis, but at that point the sprouts were the star of the show.

Up until that point, I didn’t understand the influence of MUN (Milk Urea Nitrogen) levels in milk, or how to control them. When I had my milk tested for SCC, Protein, and BF, they would always give me the MUN levels, but it was useless information to me. As I saw the milk changing and the MUN levels dropping, I made the connection. MUN levels need to be in a range, but too high levels show that a lot of the protein you are feeding is being wasted. High MUN levels probably affect the shelf life and taste of milk more than anything else.

I could see the changes happening in our milk, but you’re never sure if others see what you are seeing. But when the cheese maker at the cheese plant started coming immediately to get a glass of our milk to drink as we were making our delivery, you knew something was up. “How do you tell your boss,” he would ask, “that his milk tastes like crap?” “Not crap,” I would say, “more like urine. There is too much urea in the milk from too much grain.”

But, enough of that. The question on the table is; “How will Kinders and Minis do in a commercial dairy operation? Can they compete? Will they be bullied because of their smaller size, and will they produce enough milk to make them financially viable? The Kinders and Minis in our operation were given no special treatment. They ran with 200 lb. Saanens with no problems. If they wanted to be first in the barn, they were first in the barn. You could see them wiggling their way through all those big goats to be first in line. Our door to the parlor opened upward. As soon as you opened it a crack, they would push their way under it, leaving the larger goats outside, wondering what happened. They were a joy to work with. However, the bottom line is the bottom line. How would the numbers stack up?

We were paid for our milk on a formula based on the protein and butterfat content of the milk. All of our milk was going into cheese, and cheese yield is directly correlated to butterfat and protein content. Casein has an impact too, but was not considered in the price. As higher butterfat and protein content translates to higher dollars, it behooves you to shoot for that, unless you just like to haul water. Butterfat and protein are usually lowest in May and June. In May of 2005 our herd average was 3.77% BF, 3.11% Pro with a tank average of 5.4 lbs. of milk per day per goat. Keep in mind that tank average is different than what you might expect from a one day milk test. Tank average is the actual amount of milk shipped for the month divided by the number of days and number of goats milked. It does not take into consideration milk used for personal consumption or milk used to feed kids. It only takes into account the milk actually sold. Butterfat and Protein were derived from a sample drawn directly from the milk tank. The price we received, based on the formula, was $29.53/cwt or 29.53 cents per pound. In order to see how the Kinders and Minis compared, I measured their milk and sent in a sample to be tested for BF & Protein. As I had no way to keep their milk separate from the rest of the herd, I did a one day milk test on all of them using a milk meter. The sample was a composite sample drawn from the receiver before it went to the milk tank. Some people “fudge” their one day milk tests by not milking for several hours beforethe test, but we milked at the same times every day so the tests were accurate, though skewed from a tank average. No attempt was made to differentiate between Kinders and Minis as their milk components and size are very similar. Our May Kinder and Mini average was 5 lbs. milk per day per goat with 4.98% BF and 3.92% Protein. The price we would have received for their milk would have been $37.85/cwt versus the $29.53/cwt we received for the herd average. June herd average was 5.4 lbs. milk at 3.45% BF and 3.14% Protein. Kinder and Mini average was 5 lbs. milk at 4.12% BF and 4.25% Protein. Kinder and Mini milk would have brought $37.48/cwt versus $28.82/cwt for the herd average. Our feed costs at the time were running $13/cwt of milk sold. That included all of the feed used during the year divided by the milk sold for the year. Therefore, all of the feed used during the dry period, and all of the feed used for replacements, and all of the bedding was included in the cost per cwt. When you deduct feed costs from the equation, Kinders and Minis come out the winners by a large margin, about 30%. Daily income over feed costs for herd average in May comes out at $0.89 versus $1.24 for Kinders and Minis. The numbers for June are similar, with $0.85 for the herd and $1.22 for the Kinders and Minis.

I realize that my results are a little skewed because I used tank average for the herd and one day milk test for the Kinders and Minis, so I pulled production, BF and Protein numbers for all the major dairy breeds directly from ADGA to see how they would compare. Using their numbers against my pricing and feed costs, I came up with the following: Income over feed costs were $1.04/day for Alpine, $1.32/day for Nubian, $1.06/day for Saanen, $0.91/day for Toggenburg, and $1.02/day for LaMancha. Actual tank averages for these breeds would be lower. Why are tank averages lower? The most obvious reason is that the milk fed to kids is not added in. However, there are other reasons that may not be so obvious. People will “cull” on paper some of the goats they really haven’t culled. What do I mean by that? When people milk test their goats, often the marginal ones won’t be tested, because they don’t want to spend the money or they want to appear more successful than they really are. This skews the numbers for the whole breed. If they were selling the milk, it would be going into the tank, so even the marginal goats would be counted in the tank average. We’ve all kept goats that should have been culled, either because we needed the milk or we were so busy we didn’t notice the ones that needed to go.

Just a note on culling. Always be aware of what you are looking for. If you aim at nothing, you will hit it every time. Sometimes we are afraid to cull because we are unsure of our ability to choose the right thing. If you need direction, read everything you can get your hands on by Gearld Fry, Jan Bonsma, Jim Lents, and James Drayson. Yes, they are talking about cattle, but most of what they say can be applied to goats. The things they say about dual purpose cows relate especially well to Kinders and Minis. These men are God’s gift to us. Take advantage of their wisdom.

Also, do what’s right. Yes, you must always sell off the bottom, but you need to sell some off the top, too. It’s the right thing to do. I always sold goats that were about 2 months into their 5^th lactation. That’s when they are at their peak. They will bring more money at that point than at any other time of their life. Don’t miss that window of opportunity. You already have gotten 5 sets of kids and the milk from 4 lactations from these goats, so let someone else benefit from their subsequent lactations. They will pay you well, and the fact that you sell some good goats will pay off in the kids and culls you sell later on. You will improve all of the goats in the area eventually by putting great goats out there. I’ve seen it happen. You will see goats popping up all over that show your genetics. That’s good for the industry, not just good for you.

We ended up selling out in the fall of 2005, before we were able to change the whole herd to Kinders and Minis. If I were milking today, I would be milking exclusively Kinders and Minis. I would leave the big goats to the masses. The masses are always wrong. If I were to design another parlor, I would put in a double 14 for 1 milker, double 12 at a minimum. I would make the headgates shorter and tighten up the spacing to fit Kinders and Minis better. If I were to design for two milkers, I would put in a double 28, double 24 at the minimum. We were milking in a double 20, too many for 1 milker, not quite enough for 2. Milking is all about efficiency. It wasn’t terrible, but we could have handled more. I know a dairy that was milking 100 goats in a single 8 parlor. That would have driven me nuts. We had nothing behind the goats in the parlor. Most people have some kind of fencing behind the goats to keep them from jumping off. It’s unnecessary, and only gets in your way, wasting time. They can be trained not to jump off. If they insist on jumping off, they get a ride to the sale barn. I understand why people give their goats things to play on, but if they learn to jump when they are little, they will jump off the milking platform when they are older. We raised our kids in pens made from 30” tall hog panels. It was handy, because we could step over them. People would ask why the kids didn’t jump out. It was simple. They didn’t know they could. When they went into the pen, they were too little to jump out, and by the time they came out, they didn’t realize they had grown enough to do it.

What started, for us, as a way to get more winter milk, ultimately led us to goats that were easier to handle and more profitable. Good things often come in small packages.

A huge thank you to Henry Nordloh for writing this wonderfully informative article! The information provided is invaluable!

Thurl to Thurl? Why does that matter?

August 14, 2013 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

By Laura Kennett

Understanding all aspects of good rump structure is an important part of being a responsible goat breeder. Breeding and selling goats isn’t something to be taken lightly. Each breeder bears the responsibilty of producing quality offspring that preserve or improve the quality of the breed and match the breed standard.

One aspect of rump structure that is not often talked about and is poorly understood is levelness from thurl to thurl. This trait is important in both bucks and does, as pelvic structure is a trait that is typically passed down from generation to generation. Because I couldn’t have said it better myself, I have taken several excerpt from a well written article by Maxine Kinne on the structure and capacity of the goat pelvis.

The rump is much more than a handy place for the tail – it is integral to standing, walking, breeding and kidding. Simple everyday functions require good pelvic conformation. Reproduction also depends on the pelvis – breeding, carrying the pregnancy, delivery and feeding kids. Good pelvic structure helps the goat toward a comfortable, productive life, and selecting for it should be a high priority.

Small or poorly shaped pelvis often result in arthritic wear on the thurl joints and repetitive strain to the rear legs and feet. The thurls (hips) are ball-and-socket joints joining the hind legs to the pelvis. The shape and slope of the pelvis determine hind leg angulation and the width between the rear legs. Pelvic abnormalities create rear leg abnormalities, such as one or both stifles deviated outward or post-leggedness. Too short a pelvis very seriously handicaps the ability to give birth normally.

Pelvic Dimensions

(taken from article by Shelene Costello)

Length and width are the dimensions we see when we look at the rump. There is length from hips to pins, width from thurl to thurl, and width between the pin bones. Levelness of the rump is also taken into account, meaning a flatter rump from side to side. This does not mean horizontal to the ground – it means that the rump is more flat. Each part of the rump is important unto itself and as it correlates with the whole. Length and width should be more nearly level, not flat or rounded or steep in slope.

Rump showing excellent levelness and width from thurl to thurl

A good combination of pelvic length and the levelness from thurl to thurl correlate positively with kidding ease. Widely spaced thurls result in widely spaced rear legs. This width gives stability to the rear legs and width to the pelvic inlet (birth canal) on the inside. Thurls should be high enough to impart levelness of the rump from side-to-side. Increasing rump steepness from spine to thurl compresses pelvic width and interferes with kidding ease by compressing birth canal width. Total length of the pelvis should be medium long, a measurement which is proportionate to the goat’s size. Pelvic length equates with kidding ease better than pelvic width, although both dimensions are important to have together.

This doe had good width from thurl to thurl, but

is less level than the doe pictured above.

Goats with questionable pelvic structure should not be used for breeding. If she cannot deliver or be manually delivered vaginally the first time she gives birth, don’t breed her again, and castrate her buck kids. Making pelvic capacity an important criteria in your selection program is the most important decision you can make with regard to the future productivity of your herd. A short pelvis is often more steep and rounded from thurl to thurl than it should be.

Excessive slope from spine down to thurls

also creates less width in the pelvic area

The benefits to breeding for goats with correct pelvis structure are numerous. Longevity, better attached and better quality udders, ease of kidding, and lower vet bills are just the obvious benefits. Make sure you evaluate all aspects of rump structure in your goats, and be willing to cull those who don’t measure up. You’re doing yourself, and many other people who might buy goats that have their heritage from your farm, a huge favor.