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The Healthy Herd

Getting Your Does Ready For a Buck Visit or Artificial Insemination

July 30, 2021 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

To plan your does’ visit to a buck for buck service OR to get ready for AI, there are a few things you can do to ensure optimal timing and success. The most important consider­ation is to ensure that you know when your doe is ready and receptive! You have two options for getting the timing right: observe and mark heat cycles OR synchronize your doe using hormones.

Observe Heat Cycles

If your does’ heats are noticeable, you can watch for signs of heat and mark your calendar to pinpoint a good time for your buck visit. Heat signs seem to be stronger and more noticeable in the fall. Signs of heat in a doe include the following:

  • Swelling of the vulva
  • Seeking the buck or showing inter­est in a “buck rag.” (If you do not have a buck, please ask someone who does have a buck for a “buck rag” that has been rubbed on a buck to pick up his scent.)
  • Standing for mounting by the buck, a teaser, or even other does
  • Urinating frequently
  • Flagging tail
  • Vocalizing, often loudly (some does do this; others don’t)
  • Presenting mucus discharge that appears crystalline at the beginning but may have a cheesy appearance near ovulation time

Synchronize Your Doe

If you have difficulty identifying your doe’s heat cycle (some does are subtle about their heats; others are foghorns), or if you wish to synchronize your doe’s heat cycle to an alternate date for your preferred buck visit or kidding schedule, hormone therapy for estrus (heat) synchronization can be a valuable tool, allowing you to time your does to be bred and to kid closely together.

You’ll need a few items to follow the recommended protocol, and while the initial investment may be considered steep, it works out to be under $20 per doe to synchronize. (Prices quoted were found on valleyvet.com at the time this article was written in 2017):

The hormone progesterone is required to bring a doe into heat. While no current sources of this hor­mone are currently approved by the FDA for goats, CIDRs are approved for use in sheep and are being used for goats. The use of CIDRs in goats has been demonstrated to effi­ciently induce and synchronize estrus and ovulation during the breeding as well as the non-breeding seasons.

According to the website published by its maker, Zoetis, “The Eazi-Breed CIDR Sheep Insert is a convenient and effective method for inducing estrus in production animals and contains the natural hormone progesterone. Intra-vaginally placed CIDR’s release pro­gesterone at a controlled rate into the blood stream.”

When this article was being written, Eazi-Breed CIDR Sheep Inserts were listed $124.49 (20 count – $6.22 per doe). An Eazi-Breed CIDR Sheep Applicator on valleyvet.com is a $9.99 one-time purchase.

Lutalyse for Cattle, Swine, and Mares is $19.99 (30 ml) and is a pre­scription that your vet must write before your order can be filled (15 doses – $1.33 per doe).

P.G.600 Swine Vaccine is $43.95 (5 doses – $8.79 per doe).

This minimum purchase total with ship­ping was $220.92.These products will enable you to synchronize a minimum 5 does at a rate of $16.34 per doe (not including the applicator or shipping).Additional supplies can be purchased as needed. Please keep in mind that the use of CIDRs, PG600, and Lutalyse in goats is extra-label drug use, and you should consult your veterinarian if you have concerns.

While there are a number of protocols that are referenced, the current proto­col recommended by BioGenics is as follows:

Day 1: Insert CIDR.

Day 14: Inject IM 2ccs of Lutalyse

Day 15: Pull CIDRs and immediately inject IM 1-1/2 cc’s PG 600 (ensure to mix powder with sterile liquid per instructions first).Freeze any leftover solution for future use.

Day 16: Waiting day – do nothing. They should go into a raging heat.

Day 17: At the same time of day the CIDRs were pulled/meds given, check to see whether the does are in heat. If so, proceed with AI or take to buck.

Day 18: Reserve this day in case it is needed to continue checking for heat – AI should be done by end of day depending on the time you gave Lutalyse, pulled CIDR’s, and gave PG 600.

Tips

The Lutalyse injection and the PG 600 injection must be given at the same time both days to secure a better chance of a successful AI.

If artificial insemination is used instead of a buck, insemination should be per­formed approximately 48 hours after CIDR removal or within 12 hrs after onset of estrus.

The CIDRs should not be re-used for health reasons.

Leftover PG 600 can be frozen, but it can be unfrozen only once. If it is refrozen a second time, it will not work.

Timing your does’ heats can be extremely helpful if you are trying to prepare for efficient breeding without a buck conveniently on site. For more about artificial insemination, including instructions, tips, and available Kinder buck semen, see https://biogenicsllc.com/kinder-sire-directory-domestic/

For additional reading on other meth­ods of inducing estrus during the non-breeding season, please visit the link below: https://goats.extension.org/season-impacts-reproduction-out-of-season-breeding/

Also, please visit the link below for a better understanding of hormonal con­trol of reproduction in goats: https://goats.extension.org/reproductive-biology-goat-reproductive-physiology/

By Kirsten Simons

References (peer-reviewed abstracts):

  • E.C.Bowdridge, W.B.Knox, C.S.Whisnant, and C.E.Farin.2011.NC Synch: A protocol for ovulation synchronization and timed artificial insemination in goats.J.Anim.Sci.89 E-Suppl.1:658.
  • http://www2.luresext.edu/goats/training../ reproduction.html#seas
  • Whitley, N.C., C.E.Farin, W.B.Knox, L.Townsend, J.R.Horton, K.Moulton and S.Nusz.2011.Comparison of two ovulation synchronization methods for timed artificial insemination in goats.J.Anim.Sci.89 E-Suppl.1:658.
  • Reference: Whitley, N.C.and D.J.Jackson.2004.An update on estrus syn­chronization in goats: a minor species.J.Anim.Sci.82: E270-276E (Proceedings); http://www.luresext.edu/goats/training/ reproduction.html

Filed Under: The Healthy Herd Tagged With: Artificial Insemination

The Nutritional Wisdom of Ruminants – Part One

June 11, 2021 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

In the world of livestock and perhaps especially goats, numerous mineral programs exist. Most folks offer a pre-mixed mineral and supplement lack as needed in the form of additives like kelp or through injections, boluses, gels etc. Some goat owners offer individual minerals free choice. The individual, free-choice programs are based on the idea that goats are nutritionally wise and can select what they need and when they need it. But is that true? How DO ruminants learn what to eat? Here’s what we’ve learned so far.

Taste is the most important factor in deciding, followed by texture and odor. Both formal studies and simple observations have shown that ruminants learn what to eat through social learning (observing and copying dams and herdmates) as well as from biological feedback after consuming those foods. That means that the animal learns primarily through trial and error. If it eats this particular shrub and experiences negative consequences (rumen upset for example) the animal will then, in theory, associate the taste of that shrub with the rumen upset and not eat it again, or at least not eat large amounts of it.

In my research, Dr. Fred Provenza and Dr. Richard Holliday are among the most avid champions of free-choice, individual mineral feeding and nutritional wisdom. Even their observations and studies on the topic illustrated that the animals did not seek out certain minerals until they were deficient, sometimes severely deficient, or imbalanced. This suggests that animals eat to correct, not prevent deficiencies. In a goat-specific study, Provenza concluded “that the relative amounts of different foods ingested within a meal, and the salience of the flavors of those foods, are both important variables that cause goats to distinguish between novel foods that differ in postingestive consequences”  (8). In this study, goats were ate a shrub called blackbrush, both old season growth and current season growth. The current season growth has much lower levels of condensed tannins than old season growth. The animals did not differentiate between the two until they ate more current season growth than old in a meal, enough to acquire an aversion. Yet, taste and odor were still important factors to that acquired aversion. Read the full summary of the study here https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24242115/.

Animals do not “instinctively” recognize nutrients, but sodium is dissolved and absorbed so quickly it does appear instinctual. In early studies on nutritional wisdom, sodium was mixed in every mineral that was offered cafeteria-style. Proponents of nutritional wisdom and cafeteria-style mineral programs note this as a flaw and argue that it made it impossible for the animal to “associate feedback from the mineral with its flavor.” – “On Pasture: Can Animals Figure Out What Minerals They Need”.

To date, there are no studies proving ruminants can recognize minerals other than calcium, sodium, and phosphorus. Phosphorus deficiency often results in pica, or a depraved appetite that results in eating odd things like wood, bones, rocks, and even feces. There’s several interesting studies on mineral deficient animals in the sources, including a study in which phosphorus-deficient steers were eating rabbits and one in which calcium-deficient sheep would lick up the urine and feces of the animals in the adjacent pen that were in the non-deficient control group.

In an interesting case I found online, a goat owner fed her animals a popular mineral mix that was very low in zinc and very high in copper (a zinc antagonist) for several years. Animals began dying and were necropsied. Copper toxicity was ruled as the cause of death. What was interesting was that her goats were attempting to eat raw meat that was being fed to her livestock guardian dogs. It was hypothesized the animals were doing so because they were starved for zinc and raw beef is an excellent source of that mineral. To date, I have found no formal study on animals being able to select to correct for zinc deficiency, but that fascinating anecdotal evidence certainly points that direction and is worthy of further study.

Many goat owners believe that perhaps too often in the case of goats, palpability and curiosity trump need – I’ve personally experienced goats developing a taste for toxic plants, including hemlock – goats that were healthy and well-fed with an abundance of other forage and hay available but simply liked the taste of the dangerous plant. The aforementioned research suggests that might be the case sometimes,  perhaps especially in the case of concentrates or tasty treats. Dr. Holliday notes – “I realize mainstream nutritionists tend to downplay or totally reject the idea that animals can self-regulate their nutritional needs. I admit that this ability may not apply to all situations and to every type of feed. Some feed items (grains and concentrates) may be so tasty that most animals would overeat if fed free choice.”

Nutritional wisdom is a fascinating, complex subject worth studying more, but at the moment the evidence points out that the nutritional wisdom of ruminants is limited.

By Kenda Shatswell

Sources:

  1. https://onpasture.com/2013/08/12/deer-eat-birds/#!prettyPhoto/0/
  2. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18073279/
  3. http://www.ucv.ve/fileadmin/user_upload/facultad_agronomia/Producion_Animal/Minerals_in_Animal_Nutrition.pdf
  4. https://www.progressivedairy.com/topics/herd-health/holistic-veterinarian-offers-tips-on-free-choice-self-regulating-minerals
  5. https://extension.usu.edu/behave/past-projects/sheep-deficiencies
  6. https://www.abcplus.biz/images/Catalogs/Dr.%20Holliday%20Joy%20of%20Minerals%20PD858-4.pdf
  7. https://onpasture.com/2014/06/23/livestock-foraging-behavior-it-may-not-be-what-you-think/
  8. Provenza FD, Lynch JJ, Burritt EA, Scott CB. How goats learn to distinguish between novel foods that differ in postingestive consequences. J Chem Ecol. 1994 Mar;20(3):609-24.

Filed Under: The Healthy Herd

The Tragedy of Listeriosis

April 30, 2021 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

I naively thought nothing bad would ever happen to my pair of does. I hate that it took a tragedy for me to face the reality and responsibility of goat care.

This summer in 2018, I lost my young doe, Scarlett, to listeriosis. Quick and aggressive treatment is critical to the survival of a sick goat.  I believe that Scarlett would have had a better chance of surviving if I had started her treatment a day earlier when she just acted lethargic and was running a fever but was not yet “down”. My vet did not want to give antibiotics until she “knew what she was treating” and wanted to wait until Scarlett showed more specific symptoms. By the time Scarlett was drooling and staggering in circles it was too late. Recovery from listeriosis depends on early, aggressive antibiotic treatment. When signs of encephalitis are severe, death usually occurs despite treatment. Note: Scarlett had the encephalitic form of listeriosis, however there is also a form that causes abortion (miscarriage).

Scarlett before she was sick

Here is the progress of her illness.

Tuesday, I noticed that Scarlett was sunning on the driveway while Belle was grazing in the backyard. Weird, because they almost always stay within sight of each other.

Wednesday, she was lethargic and would walk a while then lie down. When she walked her back leg(s) seemed to be a little weak. But she did eat some and drink water.  By late afternoon she had gone to the barn and gotten weaker. I called the vet and was asked to get her temp but I didn’t even have a thermometer. I bought a thermometer and called a friend to help. Her temp was 103.8. The vet did not want to prescribe antibiotics without knowing what we were dealing with. BIG MISTAKE.

Thursday:  By the time I woke up Scarlett was drooling profusely. When I was able to get her on her feet she pulled her head sharply to the left and just walked in a circle (hence, the name “Circling Disease). The listeria bacteria infect the brain and, among other effects, can cause paralysis on one side of the face. She was not blinking one eye.

To add to my frustration and panic, my phone reception was terrible, and I had to drive to a nearby restaurant parking lot to be understood. I finally got through to the vet. I had no way to transport Scarlett to her clinic, so she came by and gave her dexamethasone (steroid) for the inflammation in the brain, Banamine (flunixin meglumine) for fever and prescribed Procaine (antibiotic) every 12 hours. But by then it was too little, too late. Even with treatment, she continued to go downhill. I got the supplies to administer subcutaneous fluids, but since she still swallowed I just gave her electrolyte fluids by mouth. Looking back, I wish I had added the sub Q fluids.

Friday: Over the next 24 hours Scarlett grew weaker and weaker. It was heartbreaking to watch. Finally, by Friday afternoon she was almost totally unresponsive, and I accepted the fact that she was not going to make it. I decided to end her suffering. It had been only a little over 48 hours since I knew something was truly wrong with Scarlett. The vet came and put her down. She was very kind and reassured me that I was doing the right thing. She then told me that she had only seen 2 or 3 cases of Listeriosis where the goat survived, and in these cases, it took months of intensive medical care on the part of the owners for the goat to pull through. And, she added, those goats were left with neurological issues. She said she didn’t tell me this at the outset because she could tell I was determined to try to save Scarlett. And, who knows, Scarlett might have been the one goat to beat the odds.  I felt guilty but, given that I had a full-time job, I knew I would not have been capable of that level of care.

Now, to be practical, I wanted to treat Scarlett’s body with respect and love. I anticipated that I might be dealing with this situation even before I had decided to put her down. I had no way to move or bury her by myself and calling friends to do it seemed too much to ask, so I went online and researched pet cremation services. I found one that would come pick her up anytime, not just during weekday working hours, and gave them a call to make sure they would handle a goat when needed. They were so kind and respectful and didn’t seem to think it odd that a woman would want to cremate her pet goat. I called after we put Scarlett down and a wonderful man drove 3 hours round trip to pick her up Friday night. It was an expensive solution, but I was comforted by his kindness.

What I learned from this tragedy:

  • Have a plan for handling emergency situations so that you can be calm and rational if/when the time comes. Be prepared with a final plan in case the worst happens.
  • Make a list of emergency supplies and keep them on hand.
  • Find a vet who can make farm calls if necessary.
  • Be informed about the varieties of illness and injury and be firm and proactive in demanding prompt and aggressive treatment.
  • Learn what medications are best for treating Listeriosis and other illnesses or injury and plan on having as many of them on hand as you are allowed.

I researched the causes and prevention of listeria infections. For all goat owners I encourage you to do the same. For example, I had always heard not to let your goats eat moldy hay, which I certainly tried not to allow. I figured it might upset their stomachs. Now I have a greater understanding of the true dangers of that and other seemingly picky considerations. The bacteria are all around us can breed in any moist, organic environment, like hay, silage, even grain feed. Standing water can also pose a threat and lord knows we’ve had lots of that with all the rain we had in NC this spring. So far, I have not identified the specific source of Scarlett’s infection, so I am trying to deal with anything I can find.

I have read that there can repeated yearly outbreaks in the same herd during winter-spring when conditions are the most conducive to bacteria growth.

Some recommendations for the prevention of Listeriosis:

  • Discard spoiled feed and hay.
  • Improve sanitation of pens, water supply, pasture, and housing.
  • Keep wild birds away from the herd as much as possible as these birds may serve as vectors for the disease.
  • Identify the source of infection in order to help eliminate the causative agent.

By Sarah Simon

Here are some online references:

http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/U/UNP-0064/UNP-0064.pdf

http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/listeriosis.html

https://www.merckvetmanual.com/generalized-conditions/listeriosis/overview-of-listeriosis

Listeriosis

Listeriosis is an infection of the central nervous system and digestive system caused by the gram-positive bacterium listeria monocytogenes.

Listeria monocytogenes can live in:

  • Soil
  • Feces
  • Animal intestinal tracts
  • Spoiled or waste silage, hay, or grains.
  • Troughs and bedding, especially in porous surfaces like wood

Listeriosis is zoonotic. In humans, listeriosis can be mild with symtoms such as headache, muscle aches, and diarrhea or very severe flu-like symptoms. Listeria infections in pregnant woman can be fatal to the unborn babies. Transfer to humans is possible through:

  • Unpasteurized milk and milk products (listeria monocytogenes can survive some forms of pasteurization) and raw meat.
  • Placenta, fetuses, or newborn kids of infected animals
  • Dead animals or aborted fetuses

While listeriosis is not considered common, prevention is critical and early detection is key. Even with early detection and treatment, treatment might not be successful. Recommended treatment is large, initially frequent doses of an antibiotic such as penicillin, which is also gram positive, and fortified vitamin B (to replenish thiamine) until the animal shows significant improvement. Then the animal is gradually weaned from the antibiotic treatment, monitoring for relapse. For a full treatment regimen, check out Goat Vet Corner’s note “Listeriosis – Circling Disease.”

Sources:
“Listeriosis in Small Ruminants: A Review” by Tewodros Fentahun and Atsedewoyne Fresebehat

https://orbi.uliege.be/bitstream/2268/250365/1/FC_Sources_Listeria_2020.pdf

https://www.fda.gov/animal-veterinary/animal-health-literacy/get-facts-about-listeria

Goat Vet Corner on Facebook.com

Filed Under: The Healthy Herd

Pasture Management for a Healthy Herd

April 2, 2021 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

A 10-acre sweep of pasture for our goats to graze in — what could be wrong with this picture? We can just fence it and let our Kinders graze, right? When we moved onto our property in the warm, humid Southeast (a temperate rainforest) in 2013, we found that it’s not that simple.

Turns out, that’s not a good long-term plan. Goats actually prefer 60% browse from shrubs and trees. (They eat fallen leaves like potato chips.) We needed trees and bushes and bramble canes to satisfy our goats’ nutritional needs and preferences. After browse, they’d like to eat about 20% “weeds” and 20% grass. They benefit from herbs, brassicas, legumes and (nontoxic) weeds in their pasture. Our picturesque old cattle pasture does not look at all like the smorgasbord they are after.

Not only do we need to add variety to our sea of grass for nutritional reasons, we also need to manage the hazard of letting our Kinders graze in a climate that sees rainy springs and moderate-to-high annual rainfall. Wet grass in warm weather is the perfect environment for parasites that can afflict and even kill our goats. The worst culprit is the Barber Pole worm (Haemonchus contortus), a parasitic nematode that sucks blood out of the gastrointestinal track. The longer goats graze a particular section of pasture, the heavier the parasite load in that pasture becomes, until parasites become a serious management problem.

Here are the factors that contribute to parasite woes:

  • Warm, wet weather
  • Grass that’s less than four or five inches tall in favorite grazing spots (Larvae wiggle up wet blades of grass.)
  • Too many goats concentrated in a space
  • Goats left to graze in one area too long
  • Parasite resistance to dewormers

Pasture Rotation

Fortunately, there are ways to combat the parasites that dramatically reduce the need for chemical dewormers, and one of these is pasture management. If an area is small, one solution is to eliminate pasture altogether, keep goats in a dry lot, and bring them their food (hay and Chaffhaye, cut branches, garden crops raised for goats, grain mixtures formulated for goats, minerals). Make sure they don’t eat off the ground.

A key practice, if goats will be grazing, is to avoid overstocking. If your goal is a self-sustaining system, you’ll do better to keep only the number of goats you can feed from a parcel of land. The more crowded your goats are, the more trouble you will have with parasites, and the more you’ll have to buy to feed them.

Implementing rotational grazing helps immensely to combat parasite loads. You do not want your Kinders always grazing under their favorite maple or apple tree over in the south corner of the pasture, until the grass is only three or four inches tall there.  Ideally you would have them grazing an area for just 4–5 days, but that’s hard to pull off. More practically speaking that time might extend to 2–3 weeks. You want them to move them along before most parasites have time to complete their life cycle. (The life cycle of the Barber Pole worm is 21–25 days. A larva deposited in pasture hatches in about 5 days.) And you want to move your goats before they eat all of their favorite things out of a pasture, leaving only the less desirable plants to grow in their place.

Once you’ve moved your goats to a new grazing area, you want to “clean” the pasture they have grazed. You have two allies on your side: time and other species that can consumer parasites without incurring harm. A pasture could sit for a year and still have some viable parasites, but not nearly as many as it had initially. Keeping goats off an area for 6–8 weeks helps considerably.

Utilizing Other Species

Chickens run with goats or after them will break up goat pellets, exposing eggs to the sun, and will consume some of the parasites. Our goats and chickens already hang out together. They aren’t susceptible to the same strains of Coccidia, though they are both susceptible to Cryptosporidiosis, which can be a problem for both chicks and kids. We’ll take the risk for the benefit. Our chickens sleep in a separate space, and we have a fun time devising ways to keep them out of the hay feeders, which apparently look more inviting to them than their nesting boxes do. The two species like being together.

Horses or other equine grazing an area after the goats do will eat larvae with the grass. Horses are not hosts for goat parasites, so they are essentially “cleaning up” after the goats, and vice versa.

Haying

Haying after goats leave an area helps, too, as the haying process mops up and kills most of the parasites. The short grass post-haying also exposes parasite larvae and eggs to hotter, drier conditions that can kill them. Haying, though, also pulls a lot of minerals and nutrients off the land—there’s that to consider. (We are faced with the task and expense of re-mineralizing after our own land was hayed for years.) We cut our pastures twice a season, for two reasons. First, our goats avoid very tall grass—they’ll stay in the barn and eat pricey hay instead. Also, by cutting our pasture, we are controlling horse nettle, a toxic plant. But we let the grass lie where it falls.

With parasite management in mind, we are planning a rotational grazing system with enough small paddocks that we can keep goats grazing in a single paddock for 2 weeks and then move them along, not to return to that paddock for 2–3 months.

Planning a System

We’re fencing a large section of our pasture with RedBrand sheep and goat fence. (Coyotes visit occasionally, and we don’t trust electric fences to be infallible.) We will initially rotate goats within that large section of pasture using movable electric fencing, but we will gradually make permanent paddocks. If we were still young and energetic and had lots of time, moving electric fence might be an ongoing option. But we are time-challenged and getting older, and we want to be goat keeping when we are 80. We are building infrastructure now while we can to make things easy for ourselves down the road.

Enhancing Browse and Pasture Species

We will create “fence pockets” along paddock fences and within paddocks using goat panels attached to posts at either end with carabiner clips. That’s where we will establish our brambles, shrubs and trees for goat browse. We will develop pastures that offer not only grass, but rye, turnips, chicory in cool seasons, and cowpeas, sorghum, soybeans in warm seasons. Sericea lespedeza and Birdsfoot trefoil (like chicory) are legumes that reduce parasite loads, but they are harder to establish, so we’ll consider small plots of those.

Cultivating Parasite-Resistant Goats, Not Resistant Parasites

Once a new pasture is fenced and ready, the temptation might be to worm everybody one last time and then move your Kinders onto clean pasture. Again, that turns out to be a bad idea. The only surviving parasites would be those resistant to the dewormer you used. You would be introducing only “Super Worm” breeding stock into your new goat pasture. You are better off deworming only those goats that have a parasite problem so that parasites that have developed resistance breed with those that haven’t. Your herd will probably carry a few parasites; the load needs to remain light.

Feeding your goats to keep them in good body condition, especially pregnant and lactating does, is vital to controlling parasite loads. The more kids a doe has, the more nutritional support she will require. A depleted goat is far more susceptible to parasites than a well-nourished one. Protein in the diet helps heal tissues damaged by parasites, and adequate copper and zinc help your Kinders to fight off parasites. Cottonseed meal as a supplement is also effective in reducing parasite loads by half or more.

If you have a goat that you are having to treat regularly for heavy parasite loads despite optimal nutrition (including adequate copper and zinc), that goat is simply more susceptible, and you should consider the option of culling that individual from your herd. Tracking fecals and using the FAMACHA method of assessing parasite loads, you’ll likely find that your herd reflects the general rule—20% to 33% of the goats have 80% of the parasite problems. You can, through culling, develop a herd that is reasonably parasite-resistant, so that good management practices such as good nutrition and pasture rotation minimize parasite issues.

To sum up, as parasites of one kind and another become resistant to one dewormer after another, your best defense for your beloved Kinder herd will not come in a bottle. Your battle plan will be threefold: (1) maximiz­ing your herd’s health and resilience through good nutrition, (2) reducing pasture parasite loads through optimal grazing management, (3) culling selectively, if individual goats need treatment again and again. Here’s to your happy and healthy herd!

By Elizabeth Sweet

Recommended for Further Reading:

  1. “How to Grow Worms (Or Not),” by Steve Hart (http://www.wormx. info/growworms)
  2. “Goat Pasture and Browse: A Permaculture Approach to Raising Healthy, Productive Goats,” by Chris Ostrander (Google author and title for PDF download.)
  3. “Tools for Managing Internal Parasites in Small Ruminants: Pasture Management,” by Linda Coffey and Margo Hale for ATTRA. (Google author and title for PDF download.)
  4. “Management of Barber Pole Worm in Sheep and Goats in the Southern U.S.,” by Joan Burke (https://attra. ncat.org/downloads/goat_barber_ pole.pdf)
  5. “Barber Pole Worm War,” by Jonathan Dohonich, DVM
  6. (http://www.rosehillvet.com/print_ version.php?articleid=68)

Filed Under: Homesteading, The Healthy Herd Tagged With: Parasite Management

Care After Kidding

March 5, 2021 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

Hopefully your does all kid easily and without any intervention. If they need help, follow-up care will depend on circumstances and the recommenda­tions of your veterinarian. For now, let’s assume that everything went great, and you only needed to help a little or not at all.

During labor and directly after kids are born, I give my does warm water with a little molasses in it, followed by fresh hay and grain. When I am sure that there are no more kids waiting to be born, I encourage my doe to get up and eat. This helps to keep her rumen func­tioning, avoids her having legs fall asleep from being in an awkward position for too long, and allows kids access to the udder. I make sure all kids are nursing and able to find the teat on their own. If they aren’t, I help them until they get the hang of it.

About an hour later, after I’m sure all the kids have nursed well, I milk the doe out almost completely to make sure she’s not uncomfortable and to encour­age more milk production and shrink­ing of her uterus. If you don’t milk your doe out, she can end up with mastitis or a blown teat if her kids all decide to nurse from the same side.

The first few times I milk a first fresh­ener, I just tie her to the wall and milk straight onto the ground or a towel. That way she can jump around without tipping over a bucket and freaking her­self out. I just let her jump around and kick all she wants. I stay calm and quiet and don’t take my hands off her teats until she settles down.

I continue to milk out once or twice a day until the babies start eating more; then I milk out once a day.

If I am worried about a doe’s ability to produce enough milk for her kids, I will sometimes milk her out only once, shortly after freshening, and then moni­tor closely and milk only if needed. In these cases, I still put her on the milk stand every 12 or 24 hours and squirt a little milk out to make sure it’s not bloody or stringy. I also check to make sure neither side is staying more full or getting hard and that teats aren’t get­ting raw. It’s also a good way to make sure that new moms are getting enough grain.

I deworm does on day 2 or 3, disbud and vaccinate babies at 10–14 days, and start pulling babies at night and milking the dam in the morning at 2–3 weeks. I try to gradually keep babies separated from dams for longer and longer after pulling them at night so that they are com­pletely weaned by 10 weeks and ready to go to new homes. I treat kids with Baycox® (Toltrazuril) because coccidia is such a problem around here. I check random fecals for other parasites, but only treat as needed.

By Sue Beck

If everything went well, and I don’t need to treat with antibiotics or address the need for further vet assistance, I too give warm molasses water and make sure they have access to whatever food they like. The does clean their babies completely. Babies stick around until the delivery process is good and done.

I milk the doe out completely when the kids are clean. I get my does used to being milked sooner than later. Nursing kids and being milked are completely different, so getting used to one process will not get them used to the other. And even if the kids are taking all of a doe’s milk, I would still suggest getting a doe on the stanchion and playing with her udder. First fresheners can have quite the learning curve when it comes to being milked. You’re better off starting sooner rather than later.

As soon as a doe kids, you don’t have to get her on the stand, start touching her udder while you assist the kids in nursing. Then afterwards continue to handle her, either milking once per day to relieve excess pressure, or just taking a few squirts to get her used to it. You may need to tie her or get her on the stanchion if she really fights it.

I bring the babies in the house, but it’s important they be out of sight and hearing of momma, otherwise it’s mean. Most of my does have never raised their own babies. I would imagine trying to start pulling kids from a doe that has raised her own every year would be quite upsetting. Because the majority of my herd are bottle babies I raised myself, the does actually don’t seem to care that much when the kids leave. They’re more worried about my leaving them. They would bond with their kids just fine, but they almost immediately transfer that bond to me. The few dam-raised does I have in my herd had a little more adjustment. But they, too, end up bonding with me more.

Back in the house, I get the kids to latch onto the nipple (some are easier to train than others) and try to get at least a couple ounces of colostrum into each one. I then go back to check on my doe, and I keep watch every couple hours to make sure she’s doing OK and passes her placenta normally.

After that things are pretty easy. I milk a minimum of twice daily, but often more frequently right after kidding to encourage milk production. I don’t always deworm after kidding, but I do as necessary. Kids are put onto a bottle-feeding schedule, introduced to hay pretty quickly, and eventually to grain when they’re several weeks old. I disbud at or after two weeks old, and deworm shortly before weaning, since many as leaving for new homes at that point.

By Ashley Kennedy

Filed Under: The Healthy Herd Tagged With: Kidding

The Pawing Doe

February 26, 2021 by Kinder Goat Breeders Association

I have one doe that is a wonderful mother except for one small behavior….right after she gets the kids cleaned off she starts pawing a hole as if she’s suddenly experienced a desperate need to visit China.  Typically the kids are still tottering around on unsteady feet, wanting to nurse, unsure how legs work to lay down, etc.  She’s knocked them over at times, pawed sawdust onto them and once they’ve finally settled down to sleep she’s at times half buried them in bedding.  My response has been checking on the kids every 20 minutes or sleeping in the stall the first night.   This time I thought I’d be strategic and give her a lot less bedding and clean up any wet bedding in case it was an instinctual urge to “get rid of the birth evidence” to avoid attracting predators.  That might have helped some but it wasn’t enough so I resorted to my next idea which was using the bottom half of a large transport crate with the opening against a wall, bedding it down, and using it as a playpen for the babies.  I went back and got them out to nurse a couple of times and by the next day she was done with the idea of being a tourist in China and I was able to safely remove the crate.  Peace reigned once again! 

By Kathrin Bateman

Filed Under: The Healthy Herd Tagged With: Kidding

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